ELEPHANTA CAVES
AT
MUMBAI
Elephanta is easily one among the most
enigmatic heritage sites in India. Who created this spectacular sculptural and
architectural feast is still mysterious.
Elephanta represents the pinnacle of rock cut
architecture and sculptural art medieval India achieved. Despite the mindless
destruction, Elephanta's art suffered during the colonial past, it still
reserves the right to awestruck any ordinary visitors.
Elephanta island stands in stark contrast
with hectic Mumbai city, As you stand at Mumbai’s most well-known spot of
tourist interest – the Gateway of India – the most overwhelming desire you will
experience is to step into a boat and explore the Arabian Sea. But this need
not just be a whim.
It can serve a purpose too if you take the
ride to visit the Elephanta Island which is just 10 kilometers from Mumbai. Not
only is the island host to a bounty of nature in the form of lush plantations
of palm, mango and tamarind trees but is also home to ancient cave temples that
have been carved out of rock and which have been declared a World Heritage
Site.
The Elephanta Island has a tiny population of
just about 1,200 residents who are mainly engaged in growing rice, fishing, and
repairing boats. But the historical legacy of the place is another story
altogether.
This island was once the capital of a
powerful local kingdom and now has three small villages occupied by the ‘kolis’
(fishermen) and the farmers who have, despite the close proximity to the
commercial capital of India, carried on with their traditional way of living.
Interestingly, the island was so named after a more or less life-size sculpture
of an elephant along with a sculpture of a horse was unearthed from here.
Of particular interest are two hills on the
island, known as the Gun Hill and the Stupa Hill. The former derives its name
from the presence of two canons of the British period placed on its top. These
canons must have played a vital role in the defense of the Mumbai Fort.
This is also the main hill on the island
where a total of five Shaiva caves were excavated in mid-6th century CE. The
Stupa Hill has the remains of a Buddhiststupa. It is completely covered with earth
and referred to as the archeological mound of a brick stupa. These caves along
with the unspoiled beauty of the place make for a perfect one-day excursion out
of Mumbai. This site was included in the list of World Heritage Sites of India
in 1987.
At the Gun Hill, the main cave is a
masterpiece of art and architecture. This is the largest and most impressive
cave and reflects an affiliation to the esoteric Pashupata sect of the Shaiva
system, the revival of which was supposed to have been done by Lakulisha, the
great preacher.
He is considered as an incarnation of Lord
Shiva by the Pashupatas. They believed in Shiva as the supreme god and in the
philosophy of ‘being one with him’ and implying ‘end of the sorrows’ as the
ultimate goal of the life of any ascetic. The panels in the caves indicate five
stages in the life of an ascetic i.e. the importance of a teacher, his grace,
illusory existence of the world, oneness of ‘shiva-shakti’ and the ultimate
form of Shiva.
For those interested in studying cave
architecture, Cave 1 will come across as the most complex of three caves
referred to as the east and west wings of the main cave.
The main cave is the temple, probably for lay
followers. There are two rooms at both the ends of the verandah in front of the
Sadaashiva image, most probably for meditation and to perform esoteric
practices. The side wings were probably the residential complexes and the
private shrines for the ascetics. The east wing has a panel of seven mother
goddesses, which is again a common feature of the Pashupata temples.
Small motor boats from the Gateway of India
are available to reach Elephanta Island. The journey takes 40-45 minutes. The
ferry service is closed during the monsoon season from June to August.